02 March 2010

Back to India

On 3 March 2010 (tomorrow, as I write this) I travel to Bangalore with a colleague from Urban Design (Faculty of Architecture, Bauhaus University) to continue work on a wayshowing project I started way back in 2006 (mentioned in one of the earlier posts here, I believe). It's a cooperation with the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad, with their Research Department in Bangalore. Dr. Bibhudutta Baral will be our host. We will give a couple of talks, speak with colleagues and students there, check into exchange possibilities between our two institutions, and take a lot of photos. The plan is to go again, possibly later in the year, with a small group of German students. We also hope to bring Indian students back to Germany at some point. All of this will depend on funding options -- there are a couple of DFG (German Research Foundation) and DST (the Indian Dept. of Science and Technology) programmes which may help us out. I'll be posting photos during the trip, if I can manage the time.

22 September 2006

Last day in India

I have spent most of the time here in Bombay in my hotel room. It’s so hot and sticky outside that one can only hold out for half an hour or so before coming back to wring out one’s shirt. This afternoon I went for a long walk down the Colaba Causeway, a so-called (in the TimeOut guide book) trendy shopping area. Lots of European-style stores with European-style clothing at roughly half of European prices, but lots of little Indian shops as well. Kind of cool to check these places out. I felt quite safe – similar to Ahmedabad, but with a slight edge of danger. Down the narrow side-streets someone who looks non-Indian is the target of staring eyes, although the begging hands don't come out immediately, as they do on the main thoroughfares. On Colaba Causeway you are approached every ten meters by someone either begging or trying to sell you something – tailor-made shirts, shoes, cheap trinkets, even pirated software. I could have bought the newest version of Adobe Creative Suite Premium for 250 Rupees (about $5 US or 4 euros) – cracked, with serial numbers included – unashamedly pirated, no bones about it, and right out in the open at a semi-permanent stall on the street. Only Windows versions were available, however. I don't know if one can get Mac software so easily, although I bet he would have organized it for me if I asked (and paid a premium). I bought a disposable camera and shot off most of the roll. My little Nikon CoolPix seems to have given up the ghost, although it may recover when I get back to the more temperate climes of Germany. It seems to be on acid – everything looks like Purple Haze. The disposable will at least give me some visual record of this day.

Leopold’s
I walked past “Leopold’s”, a tea room for tourists (although there seemed to be quite a few people in there who looked like they live here). Terrence Hollow, the Australian photographer who shared the guest house with me at NID, recommended it. I had already been out on the street for an hour or so though, and was tired and thoroughly drenched with sweat, so I walked past and came back to the hotel. I may drop by there later.

Early rising
I asked at the hotel reception when they thought I should leave for my 7 o’clock flight in the morning and they said 3:30! It seems one is expected to be at the airport three hours before the flight, although two and a half would do in a pinch. It takes about an hour to get out there, so 3:30 it is, I guess. That puts a small crimp in the enjoyment of this nice hotel. The breakfast was wonderful this morning – looks like I'll miss it tomorrow.
Whatever, I’m certainly looking forward to getting back home, even though this trip was quite an adventure.

17 September 2006

I could get used to this, maybe

One of the advantages of a stratified social system – at least for those in the higher strata – is that one is able to work more efficiently. I arrive at the NID Postgrad campus on the outskirts of Gandhinagar, and within a few minutes a man brings me a cup of steaming chai. The office where I will spend some time online (checking my emails and writing this) before meeting with the students has been cleaned and aired (they use strong disinfectants). I turn on the air conditioning, plug in my laptop and get to work. Around twelve people buzz about the campus, tending to the grounds, sweeping away debris from yesterday's storm, bringing water and tea to the teachers, opening up and airing the lecture rooms. The technicians are in the computer pool checking net connections, installing software, dusting off the keyboards (everything here is covered in dust), wiping down the screens, keeping everything in running order. In spite of occasional chaos and disorder, most of it runs like a top. Everyone has his or her duties and just gets it done.

16 September 2006

Sunday musings

The weather here is unbearable for a guy who grew up with the polar bears in Canada. Temparature high 30s C, humidity somewhere around 70%. As soon as you walk outside, all of your clothes stick to you. All I can do is sit in my air-conditioned room and write this blog. I'm missing the Sunday market, down in the old city. Not too important, since Christiane and I were there both previous Sundays. She's back home now. One more week to go for me. Thursday I'm off to Bombay before leaving for Frankfurt Saturday morning.

Ahmedabad

I was invited to the National Institute of Design (NID) – http://www.nid.edu/ – by Dr. Bibhudutta Baral, a man I met when he took part in the IIID/AIGA Summer Academy in Information Design in Bolzano, Italy, in the summer of 2005. Baral (that's what he likes to be called) runs the Masters-level course in Information Design here, a subject which is taken quite seriously by the Institute administration, as well as the Indian government. It is well-funded and staffed and takes on students who already have a Bachelors in design, computer science, or even psychology or sociology. There is a foundation course in design for those who haven’t yet studied it, as well as such subjects as cognitive psychology and interaction design. This fits with an example I know of, the daughter of a colleague of mine. She studied professional writing, cultural studies and anthropology before going on to do a Masters in Information Design at Carnegie Mellon University. She now works for NASA, developing and redesigning Mission Control for manned space flight to the moon and Mars. This is the kind of design that's important.
So, back to what I’m doing here in India. I've given lectures on typography (type choice, spacing, detail, etc. – the micro stuff) and layout (page proportions, grid systems – the macro stuff), as well as some of my information design subjects (wayfinding, charts & graphs, mapping). I’ll present my “Bauhaus Then and Now” talk next week here at NID, and I’ve also been invited to give a talk on Orientation and Wayfinding in Architecture at the Centre for Environmental Planning and Technology (CEPT), a school I visited with Christiane while she was here during the first two weeks. CEPT is very interested in arranging an exchange and cooperation agreement with the Bauhaus Uni, as is NID. I'm sure our Rektor Gerd Zimmermann will be keen on this as well.
NID was set up in 1961, following recommendations presented by Charles and Ray Eames in a paper called the “India Report” (1958). Some of the original faculty here were people from the Bauhaus and Ulm (names to be researched). There’s a lot more detail on the web site if one is interested. The basic course here still follows many of the tenets of Johannes Itten’s foundation course, something which some reformers would like to see changed. And reform is indeed in the cards. I attended a meeting on design research, accreditation, etc. the other evening and was very impressed with what the colleagues are doing to bring themselves well into the 21st century. We could take a leaf from their book.
The main campus in Ahmenabad is almost a wildlife sanctuary. It’s a garden of Eden, with peacocks and hundereds of other birds, snails the size of a fist (these make a nasty crunch if you step on them by mistake in the dark). At this time of year the climate has already cooled off somewhat, but it can still get up to the high 30s Celsius, with humidity around 50–60%. This makes it quite uncomfortable for this Canadian – dashing from one air-conditioned environment to another is my primary activity. My room in the guest house is AC’d, as is the car (a white military-style SUV) which drives me to the Post-Grad campus in the heighbouring city of Gandhinagar (a half-hour drive), where I spend most days teaching. This place resembles an occupied Mexican motel – out in the middle of nowhere, with barbed-wire fencing, a gate with three guards, a fleet of the aforementioned SUVs and their drivers sleeping in the back seats, waiting to drive one or more of us somewhere or other. Outside the fences, wilderness reigns. There are wild (or just feral) dogs, species of bird I’ve never seen, abandoned cows (they can’t kill them) wandering around foraging. Across the street are shanty-like tent settlements with extended families sleeping on cots outside, in the background a kind of upmarket subdivision, half finished. It appears abandoned.
This is place of extremes. There are middle class families shopping and eating at McDonalds (mostly vegetarian, except for two chicken offerings), and hordes of poor people sleeping on the streets. There aren't as many beggars as one might expect, although at every stop light you get your windshield wiped with a dirty cloth, followed by insistent tapping on the window for a few rupees.
The prices here are staggeringly cheap. There are 60 Rupees to the Euro, as of now. Getting a shirt washed and pressed costs 5 Rs, a sumptuous multi-course dinner at a classy restaurant can be had for 250 Rs. Meals are pretty much strictly vegetarian and there is no alcohol. Except for one “Maharaja Chicken” burger at McDonalds (I couldn’t resist), I haven’t eaten any meat in 3 weeks, nor have I even seen a beer or a glass of wine. I've been invited for pizza and beer Monday evening at the home of a couple we met at a dinner the institute director organized last week. He runs a company selling air conditioners which must be doing very well. They drove us to a place for ice cream – this was the first time we were in a “normal” car since we arrived. A sleek Hyundai – very opulent by Indian standards (normally we travel in the government SUVs or the little 3-wheeled “auto-rickshaws”). A little guy came to the window of the car and took our order, then we sat and ate it with the engine running. Decadent, but nice.